I booked myself and my bike onto an air conditioned coach to return to Delhi. I thought to stick my bike on top of a local bus and see how it went but found the direct and quicker ‘luxury’ coach not a lot more expensive. It was a good decision. The air South of the Kulu valley was very hot and humid. Northern India was in the grips of the monsoon. Early in the morning and by coincidence the coach stopped to drop someone else off at Majnu Ka Tilla in North Delhi. I grabbed my bike and gear out of the luggage compartment under the coach and stepped straight into the Tibetan community in Delhi for my third visit.
Old Delhi or Chandni Chowk itself is an extraordinary maze of buildings, streets and businesses. I lost myself in it for hours on end. It has a large muslim population and several large mosques. I visited the Sikh temple of Sisganj Gurdwara close to Chandi Chowk. I walked back along the main road North past the Red Fort. Drug addicts openly inject themselves in the streets. Delhi as a whole is undoubtedly a city to avoid if possible.