Tansen to Pokhara.

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I left Tansen a little later than I would have liked as I did not know till mid morning that my room was no longer available. I was setting off into the growing heat of the day. Unperturbed I loaded up and took the recommended short cut down through the town until I hit highway No10. The route was a little more difficult than anticipated and had to work hard to wind up and down the hills.

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It is approx. 80 miles between Tansen and Pokhara. I reached the relatively large and modern town of Walling and checked into a slightly tacky hotel; one of several on the approach into town. Walking through Walling I was amazed by the number of children and young adults everywhere. No doubt it will soon become a fair sized city. It already boasts of several long high streets crammed full of shops of every description.
Much to the disappointment of the hotel owners son I took my dinner (and breakfast) at a small cafe a few doors down. To be honest by the state of the hotel room and their toilet/washing facilities I think it might have been a big mistake to eat there. The cafe produced excellent food and went out of their way to source and cook some chicken for me. The owner looked like a short version of Leon Trotsky with a similar beard and round glasses.

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After an omelette for breakfast I was back on the road and stopped mid morning at a Hindu shrine. It was up a little climb and set back into a rockface. Apparently a god had struck the rock with their staff and miraculously made water flow from the fissure. The devotee at the shrine looked quite wild with a huge bouffant hairdo and lots of face paint. He pointed to the miracle on a large poster. His humble assistant that had been busy within the shrine emerged and presented me with sugar sweets, dried figs and an apple. Once back down on the road I gave the apple to a schoolboy and had tea opposite the entrance to the shrine.

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More climbs, one more stop for tea and then a final push up towards Pokhara. The region was marked by a large gateway. Down, down, down I rode dropping in to the south of the city and past a long queue of starving motorcyclists waiting for their petrol rations at a filling station.
Once past the ‘Damside’ of Lake Phewa I worked my way along the tourist strip to find the free camping ‘Chowk’ on the lakeside. I pitched my tent, cooked a meal and went to check out potential lodgings.

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2 responses »

  1. Hi Paul, More stunning pictures !! I have been following you on Google maps. All a bit Geeky. How is tyre wear on the bike after so many climbs and carrying a fair bit of weight ? Was talking to Ed Boys the retired gas man who works in Nepal every year and describing where you have been. He is a keen cyclist and is full of admiration for your exploits. His advice is don’t touch ‘bang’, the milky stuff. It can be unpredictable and it is ‘interdit’ in Nepal as they say en France. The temp. here is in double figures !!! just.. A heat wave! All the best Jeremy

    • Looks like spring has finally hit the UK. Give it another month and there will be an unexpected heat wave! Funny you should mention tyre wear. The Schwalbe XRs are great tyres. However on the way down into Pokhara one of the rear brake blocks has worn into the tyre wall. It has created a bulge. I have used a Park Tool tyre boot inside the tyre as a support and used a little rubber cement on the outside. It seems to be holding up. I have a spare Schwalbe tyre but is not the legendary XR. I ordered a (rare) folding XR which is now at home just in case I want one sent out.
      Current plan is to fly from Kathmandu to Srinagar in Kashmir with an overnight stopover in New Delhi. That’s the plan…it remains to be seen what Jet Airways make of my bike. All going well I will then be cycling South towards Himachal Pradesh and Delhi. Then home via Sri Lanka to the UK for a summer holiday!

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